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  • Thirty hours in hades

    Part one of a hap­haz­ard two-parter … Don’t get me wrong, I love Semarang. Small towns (pop­u­la­tion 4m or so) are sup­posed to be like this: vibrant, friend­ly to a fault, a…

  • I can see by your coat, my friend / That you’re from the other side

    The route from Bangkok to Hà Noi, across the north­east of Thai­land, over Cam­bo­dia and then Laos, was – I assume – pret­ty much the same route US behe­moth B-52s took thou­sands…

  • Everybody’s crying peace on earth / just as soon as we win this war

    I’ve been to the bor­ders of hell and back: I’ve been dri­ven (many times) in rur­al Java. I’ve gone around a cor­ner and seen a bus — count­less peo­ple hang­ing off the…