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  • Thirty hours in hades

    Part one of a hap­haz­ard two-parter … Don’t get me wrong, I love Semarang. Small towns (pop­u­la­tion 4m or so) are sup­posed to be like this: vibrant, friend­ly to a fault, a…

  • Stuck inside of Semanggi with the Soekarno-Hatta blues again

    Yes­ter­day I blew my nose and a huge black bit of gunk came out. But you get that in Jakar­ta, the relent­less dirty yel­low and grey air is an obvi­ous down­side to one…