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  • Thirty hours in hades

    Part one of a haphazard two-parter … Don’t get me wrong, I love Semarang. Small towns (population 4m or so) are supposed to be like this: vibrant, friendly to a fault, a…

  • Stuck inside of Semanggi with the Soekarno-Hatta blues again

    Yesterday I blew my nose and a huge black bit of gunk came out. But you get that in Jakarta, the relentless dirty yellow and grey air is an obvious downside to one…